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Post by kyle on Feb 5, 2018 21:31:59 GMT
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Post by ral67 on Feb 8, 2018 12:28:11 GMT
good to see a bit more info on DIY
can you explain when and why someone would need/want an external PSU ?
I think you said in another post that the DS 4k/HD PS can provide enough power for 250 LEDs ?
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Post by lab714 on Feb 16, 2018 19:23:06 GMT
Each LED connector can provide power for 125 LEDs. With both the LED Connectors on 4K/HD Hub 250 LEDs can be used.
An external power supply is recommended if a single LED connector is addressing more than 125 LEDs.
An external power supply is recommended if LEDs are doubled/tripled (in parallel).
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Post by aktiv9d on Feb 27, 2018 19:22:07 GMT
Each LED connector can provide power for 125 LEDs. With both the LED Connectors on 4K/HD Hub 250 LEDs can be used. An external power supply is recommended if a single LED connector is addressing more than 125 LEDs. An external power supply is recommended if LEDs are doubled/tripled (in parallel). With a 5V 40A external PSU, would the Dreamscreen hub limit the addressable LED's to 300, or anything? I ask, because I have the Dreamscreen DIY Kit, and my WS2813's were severely underpowered. Each 5m strip of 30LED/m only had the first 1/3 of the strip lit, all in red color. Since the approval for the forum took some time, I purchased a 5V 40A external PSU  |
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Post by robbie on Feb 28, 2018 7:08:06 GMT
With a 5V 40A external PSU, would the Dreamscreen hub limit the addressable LED's to 300, or anything? The hub can only control up to 250. This is a limit on the number of LEDs that can be addressed, and not a power limit. Each 5m strip of 30LED/m only had the first 1/3 of the strip lit, all in red color. Since the approval for the forum took some time, I purchased a 5V 40A external PSU This may be due to volt drop along the supply cables: With all LEDs on (maximum current draw) the voltage will drop along the length of the strip, causing the whites to increasingly shift towards red as the LEDs get further from the power input (and eventually go out if the voltage drops too far). Are you using a thick enough gauge of wire from your power supply? Do more LEDs light if you reduce the brightness? (Lower current draw = less volt drop.) |
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Post by robbie on Feb 28, 2018 11:28:01 GMT
Ah, just what I need to help with my DIY wiring. A very useful picture. Thank you Kyle. I now have my DIY cables, but does anyone know where I can buy the power supply plug to screw terminal adaptor - pointed to by the arrow marked “3rd Party Power Supply”? I’m remotely mounting the Dreamscreen box away from the TV and use the supplied 5V 8A power supply to power my LED strip at the TV, so I’ll also need another smaller power supply to power the Dreamscreen box. Although I have also asked elsewhere, can anyone confirm; How many amps does the Dreamscreen 4K box draw on it’s own (with no LEDs connected)? What size is the round power connector? It appears around (Outside) 5.5mm x (In) 2.1mm. Can anyone confirm that it is? (A voltmeter has already shown that it is centre +, outer -.) Thank you. |
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Post by ral67 on Feb 28, 2018 12:43:11 GMT
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Post by aktiv9d on Feb 28, 2018 21:56:45 GMT
Thanks guys. I had just read about raising/lower brightness to check if there issues with power. Good idea.
The external PSU is still in the mail, but I was actually just using DreamScreen's HD DIY Kit. One 5m strip could only get powered to about 1/3d of the way to the end.
Strangely, connecting two exact same WS2813's would power to about 1/3rd as well. Both red.
The manual's diagrams only have three wires specified, with one data wire. Should I be connecting the other wire (yellow), on the WS2813, to anything?
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Post by rsisco on Feb 28, 2018 23:03:00 GMT
Hmmm sounds like you may have gotten RGBW(Red, Green, Blue, White) LED's instead of RGB(Red, Green, Blue) LED's please confirm or correct me if I am wrong.
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Post by frogster99 on Mar 1, 2018 16:04:39 GMT
Just a quick question. when using led port 1 and 2, where the two dead ends meet, that are not powered, can we then join the ground to ground of port 1 and 2 together and the +5v to +5v of port 1 and 2 together to equal the power across all leds and ports?  |
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Post by kyle on Mar 1, 2018 16:33:40 GMT
Just a quick question. when using led port 1 and 2, where the two dead ends meet, that are not powered, can we then join the ground to ground of port 1 and 2 together and the +5v to +5v of port 1 and 2 together to equal the power across all leds and ports? Yes, you can power the LEDs from the 'opposite' end of the LED strip if wished. In addition: Yes, you can tie GND-GND and 5V-5V for LED1 and LED2. (Just remember to NOT tie 5V between the different power supplies, as shown in the DIY document.) |
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Post by frogster99 on Mar 1, 2018 17:09:30 GMT
Ok Thanks for that.
Just needed to check.
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Post by aktiv9d on Mar 1, 2018 19:56:31 GMT
Hmmm sounds like you may have gotten RGBW(Red, Green, Blue, White) LED's instead of RGB(Red, Green, Blue) LED's please confirm or correct me if I am wrong. It should show up in my profile, but I've a total of two sets of 5m WS2813. IIRC, it should also be the same hookup as WS2812B. Their color coding is the same as the DS adapter that came with the DIY set: Red +5V, Green = Data (DO/DI), Yellow, Black (GND) -- in that order I'm looking for that yellow wire. The BO/BI connection on the strip remains empty, so does the yellow wire need to get hooked up to it? I'll connect the 2x 5V wires and 2x GND wires into the external PSU. I know the diagrams. Once I get the external PSU hooked up, I'm hoping that it fixes my issue with only 1/3'rd of the LED strips getting lit up red. I just still have no idea if that yellow wire, from the strip's BO/BI, should get connected to the green DS adapter, or just left alone. It just doesn't say anything specific in the manual. |
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Post by Admin on Mar 1, 2018 20:51:59 GMT
If your LED strips contain an extra wire for Backup Data that can also be wired into the DOUT port on the DIY cable. I believe you can also just leave it unconnected if you wish.
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Post by rsisco on Mar 1, 2018 21:09:00 GMT
The yellow wire is a secondary control wire(BO=Backup Output, BI=Backup Input) for that model LED strip. I am unsure if this may be tapped with the green wire or not.
This is intended to allow the signal to continue past a bad LED rather than the remainder of the strip not working.
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